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 11-21-2019, 10:25 AM | #1 |
sonofcy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Qualicum Beach Posts: 555 | Water leaking from under shower stall 2018 Montana 3811MS out of warranty. |
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| 11-21-2019, 12:39 PM | #2 |
chuckster57 Site Team Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Modesto Posts: 20,353 | If your shower is built above the basem*nt, often times you can just remove the rear wall and see everything. __________________ Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs. |
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| 11-21-2019, 12:44 PM | #3 |
sonofcy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Qualicum Beach Posts: 555 | Quote: Originally Posted by chuckster57 If your shower is built above the basem*nt, often times you can just remove the rear wall and see everything. No access from any side. Attached is picture of the back side of the shower. |
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| 11-21-2019, 12:49 PM | #4 |
chuckster57 Site Team Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Modesto Posts: 20,353 | Is your shower in the upper part of the coach, near the bedroom. Do you have to go up the stairs to get into the bathroom? __________________ Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs. |
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| 11-21-2019, 12:53 PM | #5 |
sonofcy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Qualicum Beach Posts: 555 | Quote: Originally Posted by chuckster57 Is your shower in the upper part of the coach, near the bedroom. Do you have to go up the stairs to get into the bathroom? Main living area is level 1, up 2 stairs to level 2 with bath, up 1 stair for level 3 bedroom. I see no access to the area between level 2 and 3 and it is only 7.75". Drain must be removable from above since there is no way to attach a nut on the bottom like most use. Distance between level 1 and 2 is about duble, say 16" but the only access that is human size is from the basem*nt. I have taken off the basem*nt wall and still can't see the toilet or shower drain pipes. If the drain has to be removed from the bottom, I am screwed. |
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| 11-21-2019, 01:53 PM | #6 |
chuckster57 Site Team Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Modesto Posts: 20,353 | Im willing to bet you can get to the drain from the basem*nt. __________________ Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs. |
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| 11-21-2019, 01:58 PM | #7 |
sonofcy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Qualicum Beach Posts: 555 | Well I assume so as well, but it will be a tight squeeze and lot's of 'stuff' in the way. At this point I can't even see the pipes that I know have to be there. I will look again but start at the black tank and work backwards to the toilet, then the shower drain should be a couple of feet beyond that. At the moment it doesn't seem to be leaking so we are guessing somebody has to be in the shower for it to happen. |
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| 11-21-2019, 03:31 PM | #8 |
JRTJH Site Team Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Gaylord Posts: 26,997 | If you look at your photo of the shower drain, there's the shower pan, the drain and a black rubber gasket between the two. On most RV shower pans, the weight of an adult will push down on the shower pan causing it to flex. If there's any looseness between the drain and the shower pan, that flexing will allow the water to leak. You can run the shower all day and it'll never leak, stand in the shower, 2 minutes later, there's water on the floor. How to fix it? Some (not all) shower pans have an access panel that you can remove from inside the bathroom. If you're lucky, you can work from above the floor. On the other hand, if your luck is like mine, you're going to need to "shinney under the floor" in the basem*nt, once you finally get in there, you'll see a hole about 6" in diameter with the shower drain, HEPVO valve and the lower part of the shower drain fitting. You can remove the HEPVO valve (PAY ATTENTION TO HOW IT'S ORIENTED BECAUSE IT WON'T DRAIN IF YOU INTALL IT UPSIDE DOWN). Once the valve is removed, you can remove the drain fitting, clean it up, have someone in the bathroom clean up the top part of the drain fitting, reinstall it with some sealant on the black rubber gasket and then reassemble it (with the HEPVO valve properly positioned), let it dry overnight and hopefully you'll be "good to go"..... __________________
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4 |
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| 11-21-2019, 03:50 PM | #9 |
sourdough Site Team Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: W. Texas Posts: 17,695 | Not sure how much the shower floor is flexing. Sealing the drain might stop the leak for the short haul but if you have an unacceptable amount of flex it might cause future problems. Upon purchase I knew ours had too much flex. They said it was normal. I told them that was silly; in 12 mos. and 4 days that shower floor was going to start leaking around that drain and the "I" would be doing the repairs. Made them go under the shower and install additional floor supports (like a rock now) and that issue has never reared its head. All that to say that, if accessible, some additional support may help with flex causing the leak. __________________ |
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| 11-21-2019, 04:33 PM | #10 |
sonofcy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Qualicum Beach Posts: 555 | Quote: Originally Posted by JRTJH If you look at your photo of the shower drain, there's the shower pan, the drain and a black rubber gasket between the two. On most RV shower pans, the weight of an adult will push down on the shower pan causing it to flex. If there's any looseness between the drain and the shower pan, that flexing will allow the water to leak. You can run the shower all day and it'll never leak, stand in the shower, 2 minutes later, there's water on the floor. How to fix it? Some (not all) shower pans have an access panel that you can remove from inside the bathroom. If you're lucky, you can work from above the floor. On the other hand, if your luck is like mine, you're going to need to "shinney under the floor" in the basem*nt, once you finally get in there, you'll see a hole about 6" in diameter with the shower drain, HEPVO valve and the lower part of the shower drain fitting. You can remove the HEPVO valve (PAY ATTENTION TO HOW IT'S ORIENTED BECAUSE IT WON'T DRAIN IF YOU INTALL IT UPSIDE DOWN). Once the valve is removed, you can remove the drain fitting, clean it up, have someone in the bathroom clean up the top part of the drain fitting, reinstall it with some sealant on the black rubber gasket and then reassemble it (with the HEPVO valve properly positioned), let it dry overnight and hopefully you'll be "good to go"..... It took 2 hours for the water to show up but it leaks with nobody in the shower. Our old TT would have flexed but this Montana has a real one piece shower so no flex. No access panel. I will lay down a bead of goop where the seal is and see if that makes a difference. We are full timers and have been at our winter location for almost 2 months after more than a year at our friends place. This leak appeared out of nowhere, it is weird. I went and looked again and still can't see where the bathroom pipes come down. Tomorrow I will remove a panel on the other side to see what I can see. |
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| 11-24-2019, 06:05 PM | #11 |
sonofcy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Qualicum Beach Posts: 555 | Problem fixed. |
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| 12-01-2019, 09:31 AM | #12 |
sonofcy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Qualicum Beach Posts: 555 | UPDATE, we were wrong! I thought the problem was fixed but nooooo. |
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| 12-01-2019, 09:57 AM | #13 |
jteigen Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Everett, WA Posts: 16 | Quote: Originally Posted by JRTJH If you look at your photo of the shower drain, there's the shower pan, the drain and a black rubber gasket between the two. On most RV shower pans, the weight of an adult will push down on the shower pan causing it to flex. If there's any looseness between the drain and the shower pan, that flexing will allow the water to leak. You can run the shower all day and it'll never leak, stand in the shower, 2 minutes later, there's water on the floor. How to fix it? Some (not all) shower pans have an access panel that you can remove from inside the bathroom. If you're lucky, you can work from above the floor. On the other hand, if your luck is like mine, you're going to need to "shinney under the floor" in the basem*nt, once you finally get in there, you'll see a hole about 6" in diameter with the shower drain, HEPVO valve and the lower part of the shower drain fitting. You can remove the HEPVO valve (PAY ATTENTION TO HOW IT'S ORIENTED BECAUSE IT WON'T DRAIN IF YOU INTALL IT UPSIDE DOWN). Once the valve is removed, you can remove the drain fitting, clean it up, have someone in the bathroom clean up the top part of the drain fitting, reinstall it with some sealant on the black rubber gasket and then reassemble it (with the HEPVO valve properly positioned), let it dry overnight and hopefully you'll be "good to go"..... We had the flex in ours and it also leaked. The second time we had it into the dealer they completely redesigned/rerouted the plumbing and it hasn't leaked since. |
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| 12-01-2019, 10:28 AM | #14 |
sonofcy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Qualicum Beach Posts: 555 | Quote: Originally Posted by jteigen We had the flex in ours and it also leaked. The second time we had it into the dealer they completely redesigned/rerouted the plumbing and it hasn't leaked since. That is definitely a common issue and our lower quality TT we had before would have done that. It also had an access hatch. Our new higher quality trailer has no flex and no access to the drain other than crawling between the floors. |
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| 12-02-2019, 05:59 PM | #15 |
Larrylane Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Claremore, OK. Posts: 22 | I have a shower stall just like yours and also had a leak on the floor (not in the basem*nt) within minutes after taking a shower. I fixed mine by pulling out the screws holding the bottom shower door channel and installing rubber O-rings around the screws and re-installing them. I also filed the drain holes in the channel until it was flush with the channel so all the water sheeting down into the channel from the door would drain back into the shower and not just sit in the channel because the hole was 1/16" above it. I had a friend that was encountering the same problem and he was able to repair based on my fix. |
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| 12-02-2019, 06:17 PM | #16 |
sonofcy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Qualicum Beach Posts: 555 | Quote: Originally Posted by Larrylane I have a shower stall just like yours and also had a leak on the floor (not in the basem*nt) within minutes after taking a shower. I fixed mine by pulling out the screws holding the bottom shower door channel and installing rubber O-rings around the screws and re-installing them. I also filed the drain holes in the channel until it was flush with the channel so all the water sheeting down into the channel from the door would drain back into the shower and not just sit in the channel because the hole was 1/16" above it. I had a friend that was encountering the same problem and he was able to repair based on my fix. I already applied silicone to the screw head (only one) and gooped the end that looked like it was leaking but I will take a closer look after I run down some other issues. |
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| 12-03-2019, 07:01 AM | #17 |
Larrylane Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Claremore, OK. Posts: 22 | O-rings are pretty cheap and easy to apply. The hardest part is filing the holes in the door channel until they are flush with the bottom of the channel. I know before I did mine the water would sit in the bottom of the channel and collect dust and hair and start molding. Now the water runs out the channel and dries which makes cleaning easier during normal routines. |
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| 12-03-2019, 07:21 AM | #18 |
sonofcy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Qualicum Beach Posts: 555 | Quote: Originally Posted by Larrylane O-rings are pretty cheap and easy to apply. The hardest part is filing the holes in the door channel until they are flush with the bottom of the channel. I know before I did mine the water would sit in the bottom of the channel and collect dust and hair and start molding. Now the water runs out the channel and dries which makes cleaning easier during normal routines. I was thinking of drilling some more drain holes but filig the existing drains makes sense. On mine at least they have NO drains at the extreme ends and that needs to be addressed. At the moment I can't see a way to remove the glass doors so I can remove the bottom channel. It looks like I have to remove the top channel, is that correct? |
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| 12-03-2019, 04:11 PM | #19 |
Larrylane Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Claremore, OK. Posts: 22 | I didn't remove mine. |
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| 12-03-2019, 04:45 PM | #20 |
sonofcy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Qualicum Beach Posts: 555 | Quote: Originally Posted by Larrylane I didn't remove mine. My track is actually 3 tracks and filing the opening in the 2nd and 3rd track would be really difficult. I would look at using a dremel and abrasive drum to do that but I really doubt this is my source given there is only one screw through it and it was just covered with silicone recently., Also the amount of leak is waaaaaaay more than could go through the screw hole if I removed it entirely. My money is on the new taps I installed and promptly ruined by tightening the hose without holding onto the dumb plastic thing that feeds water to the hose. As soon as my inspection scope gets here I will look at the taps to decide if I need to replace them again but this time knowing to not twist the stupid plastic pipe out of it's seat. |
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| leak, water, water leak |
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